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Until the early 1990s, this was quiet farm country on the Han River, lined with barbed wire to keep North Korean infiltrators at bay. But as relations with the North thawed,

Seoul began building residential high-rises at Ilsan,

now the core of the city of Goyang. With its man-made lake and vast flower beds amid woods preserved by the cold-war development freeze—all just 30 minutes by subway from downtown Seoul—Goyang has proved wildly popular. Its population has quadrupled in the last decade, and now includes some of the richest people in South Korea. Kim Doo Ik, a resident since 1995, boasts that Goyang is the most "pleasant and convenient" of all the "bed towns" popping up around Seoul.


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Seoul began building residential high-rises at Ilsan,

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